Khayamiyya

In this post, I’m delighted to introduce you to a major textile art happening today: Khayamiyya (Appliqué) of Egypt. Next month we’ll follow up with embroidery arts. Let me know if there are other arts you’d like to see in future posts. For example, anyone here want to write or read about caftan fashions of Morocco? Another topic familiar to those who knit or crochet is “Tunisian crochet.” As far as I know, this technique and its name have nothing to do with Tunisia (source here), but tell me if you know better!

Khayamiyya (Appliqué) of Egypt

الخيامية

This distinctive art derives from the creation of tents (khayamiyya means roughly ‘tent art’ or ‘tent work’), dating from the Fatimid period (909-1171). Other theories trace khayamiyya to ancient Egypt. In any case, the designs certainly reflect various artistic influences from Egyptian history (such as lotus flowers from ancient Egypt, as well as biomorphic floral patterns and Arabic calligraphy, both popular throughout Islamic art). Since the 17th century, these works of art have been produced and sold in the covered market street called Khayamiyya (“Street of the Tentmakers”) in old Cairo. This decorative art is traditional for Ramadan tents (fabulous surroundings for holiday events, such as festive performances and lavish banquets, as well as other occasions for social gatherings). On a smaller scale, these textiles are often used for wall hangings and pillows. The designs are also used to decorate items generally, such as mugs and refrigerator magnets.

Khayamiyya consists of hand-stitched cotton appliqué over a heavy cotton back. To see how this art is done, check out this very informative demo video:

For more on the social context of people who create khayamiyya in Cairo today, see the documentary The Tentmakers of Cairo (available on Kanopy as of now). For further reading, see the book by the same title: The Tentmakers of Cairo: Egypt’s Medieval and Modern Applique Craft.

Related topics that might interest readers:

Mamluk Carpets: article on AramcoWorld here

Reframing the Alhambra: Architecture, Poetry, Textiles and Court Ceremonial book review on AramcoWorld here

Coming Up Next: Embroidery!